Mountains of impressions: three republics of the North Caucasus in four days

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Prospekt Mira in Vladikavkaz with mountain views. Photo ATOR

WHERE TO EAT IN VLADIKAVKAZ

For dessert and aesthetics, you should go to the Gorka coffee shop (place on the map) in Khetagurov Park. There you can taste ice cream in the famous Soviet cremans, see the creation of Marc Chagall on the ceiling, and a funny merch, in which the main characters turned into Ossetians in national costumes on famous canvases of artists. We posted the video on our telegram channel.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Gorka Restaurant in Khetagurova Park in Vladikavkaz. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Interior of Gorka cafe. Photo by ATOR

You can have a hearty lunch or dinner at the beautiful restaurant “Dendrarium(dot on the map). There is a pleasant green area on the territory of the institution and even its own stage. A large company can sit in the halls with a separate entrance.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Arboretum Restaurant in Vladikavkaz. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Rooms with a separate entrance in the Arboretum restaurant. Photo ATOR

IS THE YOUNGEST REGION IN RUSSIA AND THE SMALLEST CAPITAL

Less than 30 km from Vladikavkaz is Magas is the capital of the youngest region in Russia – Ingushetia. Magas itself, with a population of 25 thousand people, is considered the smallest regional capital in our country.

In the city, you can walk along the main street – Idris Zyazikov Avenue. A bike path runs parallel to the avenue, along which you can ride a scooter or bike. But in the evening, the correspondent of Vestnik ATOR met a horseman on a bicycle path.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Modern Magas with a bike path. Photo by ATOR

At the end of the main avenue, the construction of the mosque “Heart of the Caucasus” is almost completed (dot on the map). While it is still surrounded by a construction fence, but with it the golden domes of the mosque look spectacular against the background of the snow-capped caps of the Caucasian ridge.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

The Heart of the Caucasus mosque under construction in Magas. Photo by ATOR

You can see the whole of Magas at once, as well as neighboring Nazran, from the highest observation deck on the North Caucasus – in The Tower of Concord in the park Silk Road (dot on the map).

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Concord Tower with observation deck. Photo by ATOR

The height of the tower is 100 m, it was built in 2013. The site is open until 22:00, and admission costs 200 rubles. The ticket price includes a visit to several expositions that introduce visitors to the Ingush way of life. The video from the observation deck is in our telegram channel.

Interestingly, in the capital of Ingushetia, the stops are equipped with air conditioning, and special bins for fluorescent lamps, mercury thermometers and chemical power sources are installed on the streets.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Air-conditioned stop in Magas. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Container for collecting fluorescent lamps and mercury thermometers. Photo by ATOR

Along the highway from Magas to Grozny, on the right side you can see the famous Giant Garden – one of the leading fruit growing enterprises in Russia.

Dwarf apple trees are grown in the fields of the agro-complex, which from afar can be confused with vines. But these “babies” produce such a huge harvest that it is sold by well-known grocery chains all over the country. The impressive warehouse of the garden is also visible from the road, the harvest can be stored in its refrigerators for up to 16 months.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Dwarf apple trees, which can easily be mistaken for a vineyard, in a giant garden in Ingushetia. Photo ATOR

WHERE TO STAY IN MAGAS

In the center of the capital of Ingushetia, we recommend hotel Artis Plaza (point on the map) with spacious rooms. Even the “standard” looks impressive here, and the panoramic windows make the room visually even bigger.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Spacious room at the Artis Plaza Hotel in Magas. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Bathroom in the Artis Plaza Hotel room. Photo by ATOR

The hotel employs very friendly female housekeepers, they treat guests with respect, and if you contact them, they will be happy to help with advice, for example, on the dress code on the streets of the city.

WHERE TO EAT IN MAGAS

You can get acquainted with traditional Ingush cuisine at restaurant Del Magas in the city center (dot on the map). Correspondent of the ATOR Bulletin It is strongly recommended to try the hot dishes there zizhig-galnash. This is boiled meat with dumplings made of wheat flour.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Zizhig-galnash – boiled meat with dumplings made of wheat flour. Photo by ATOR

And for dessert, order hingalsh – a delicious closed flatbread with pumpkin filling, cooked in a frying pan.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

A very tasty sweet dish – hingalsh with pumpkin filling. Photo by ATOR

A pleasant moment – a group of adult women sitting at a nearby table, leaving the restaurant, greeted a group of journalists from Moscow and expressed gratitude for visiting their native land.

WHAT TO SEE IN CHECHNYA: USHKALOY TOWERS, VEDUCHI, SHAROY COMPLEX, LAKE KEZENOY-AM

Ushkaloyskie bashni

Leaving Grozny at the end of the trip, a group of journalists from leading media outlets, together with a correspondent from Vestnik ATOR, set off towards the Argun Gorge to Ushkaloy towers (dot on the map).

Watchtowers on the banks of the Argun River were known back in the XI century. Then they guarded the trade route through the Caucasus, and today tourists specially come here to take beautiful photos.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

The Ushkaloy towers in the Argun Gorge of the Chechen Republic. Photo by ATOR

The wind in this narrow place of the gorge howls with such force that the interlocutors barely hear each other. However, it is he who gives travelers the necessary coolness at +35 degrees. Videos of the towers can be seen here.

All-season goseasonal kurort Veduchi

30 minutes walk from the Ushkaloy towers – and you get to a height of 1500 m, to the Veduchi mountain complex(point on the map). The temperature here is noticeably lower than in the valley, so it’s worth bringing warm clothes with you.

Facilities continue to be built at the resort, but the necessary infrastructure to accommodate tourists is already ready. The complex is unique in that its center is located at the top, and cable cars descend from above to lift skiers back up the mountain. In summer, you can take a sightseeing tour on the cable car.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Cable car at Veduchi resort. Photo by ATOR

There is also a beautiful swing with a panorama of the mountains. Perhaps it’s worth coming here in the morning or afternoon, because at sunset the sun will shine directly into the camera.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Swing with mountain view in Veduchi resort. Photo ATOR

Another entertainment here is trekking. The length of the ecotrope in Veduchi is more than 30 km. The first one stretches from the cable car for 14 km. Proven: you will get unimaginable pleasure from contemplating the mountains, alpine aromas and subtle sounds of nature.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Eco-trail at Veduchi resort with information for tourists. Photo by ATOR

READ ALSO:

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By the way, Veduchi resort has its own keeper – a “special” cat accompanied the journalists throughout the route and when the group split up – one part went forward and the other turned back – the cat waited until the second part “came to its senses” and returned, and escorted her back.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

The cat who guarded a group of journalists at the Veduchi resort. Photo by ATOR

At night, silence can be heard in Veduchi. Not a single sound will disturb your sleep – and this is a real shock for those who came to the mountains from the metropolis.

Sharoysky historical andarchitectural complex

To understand what the Caucasus is, you need to go to the mountains. Those who decide to continue the route to Sharoysky complex with (point on the map) will have such an opportunity. There is only 50 km of road, but in the mountains it is two hours away and minus two jeeps out of five. So the group, in which our correspondent was, was twice re-seated in cars while they were out of order one by one.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

The route started with five jeeps, but by the end there were three cars left. Photo by ATOR

Guided tours are held in the architectural monument, which was restored only three years ago. For example, there you can find out that a married and an unmarried girl in the Caucasus used to be distinguished by a jug – the “ugly” belonged to a married lady, and the handsome one belonged to a marriageable girl.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Two jugs for unmarried and married women. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Sharoysky complex. Photo by Patimat Magomedgadzhieva

The pyramidal shape of the defensive towers of the complex has its own special function. In ancient times, everything was thought out: if you drop a stone from a window on an enemy storming a tower, it will fly off the wall and hit him right in the head.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

View of the Sharoysky complex. Photo ATOR

Lake Kezenoi-Am

From the Sharoy complex to the lake Kezenoy-Am leads another difficult but incredibly beautiful route.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Only the Caucasus Mountains can be better than mountains. Photo ATOR

The road goes through Alpine pastures, so sheep, goats, cows and horses accompanied the group all the way.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

There are horses, cows, sheep on the road. Photo ATOR

A full-fledged tourist center with a large hotel, restaurant and entertainment is located on Lake Kezenoi-Am (dot on the map). 

It offers tourists a zipline, saps, boats and horses, as well as a beautiful green and blue lake. Do not forget that Kezenoi is a mountainous lake, i.e. it is not particularly hot here, so you can swim here, but you don’t really want to. However, there are sunbeds available.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Zipline over Lake Kezenoy-Am in Chechnya. Photo by ATOR

On the way to Grozny, you can buy fresh fruits – peaches just melt in your mouth, they just won’t get to Moscow. But apricots can be delivered if they are a little unripe.

And this year in Chechnya you can buy honey from milkweed. According to local drivers, such honey is collected once every three years. The price of 1 liter is 1000 rubles. Apricots – 40 rubles per 1 kg.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Apricots are sold at 40 rubles per kg. Photo ATOR

WHERE TO STAY AND WHERE TO EAT IN CHECHNYA

One night on a trip to Chechnya should definitely be spent either on Lake Kezenoi-Am or at the Veduchi resort. You can stop at the lake and eat at the hotel of the same name, built in the shape of a pyramid (dot on the map). 

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Hotel on Lake Kezenoi Am. Photo by ATOR

In the restaurant, be sure to order saj – these are vegetables with meat in a frying pan.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

On Lake Kezenoy you definitely need to try saj meat and vegetables in a frying pan. Photo by ATOR

In Veduchi, we also recommend the Edelweiss Hotel (dot on the map), with cozy rooms and a good restaurant, where waiters educated in the best traditions of the Caucasus work. Here you need to try siskal – cottage cheese, slightly “rough”, cheesecakes with corn flour and, although not Chechen, but very tasty, dessert – meringue roll.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Edelweiss Hotel in Veduchi resort. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Cozy room inthe Edelweiss Hotel in Veduchi resort. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Bathroom at the Edelweiss Hotel in Veduchi resort. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

View from the balcony at the Edelweiss Hotel. Photo by ATOR

The mountain air awakens the appetite, do not deny yourself pleasant things.

WHAT TO SEE FOR A TOURIST IN GROZNY

One of the advertising slogans of the Chechen capital sounds like “Formidable from the outside, but kind inside.” In general, the statement is true, if you respect the Caucasian traditions.

These stands will remind you of them.

The capital of the Chechen Republic hosted the first Caucasian Investment Forum from July 15 to 17. There were many guests, hotels and restaurants were full, and taxis had to be searched, so the guests had to walk a lot. Fortunately, the most important places in the center are nearby.

In Grozny, the tourist’s attention will definitely be attracted by the oriental-style Minutka complex (dot on the map). The building was built inspired by the architecture of Dubai, and it got its name due to the station that was once located here, where the train stopped for only one minute.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Minutka complex in Grozny. Photo by ATOR

In the quarterGrozny City you can climb the observation deck (dot on the map) to see the city in daylight, and in the evening have dinner on the roof of a neighboring building in the Kupol restaurant (dot on the map) and then the city will play in sunset colors.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

View from the observation deck of the Kupol restaurant and the Heart of Chechnya Mosque. Photo by ATOR

The working day at the observation deck starts at 10 a.m., tickets cost 200 rubles. The playground itself consists of two tiers and the fences on the second one, although they look a little scary, perform their function. You can look anywhere, but take pictures of only 3 sides out of 4 – it is forbidden to take an angle with a view of the residence of the head of the republic, as the corresponding signs and a special person remind you.

It takes 5 minutes to walk from the business district to the famous mosque “Heart of Chechnya” (dot on the map) by crossing the bridge over the Sunzha River. For women, the prayer space is organized on the second floor, closer to the dome. From here it turns out to take wonderful photos.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Mosque “Heart of Chechnya” in Grozny. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Inside the Heart of Chechnya Mosque in Grozny. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

View of Grozny City from the flower park. Photo ATOR

WHERE TO STAY IN GROZNY

In relative proximity to the center are hotel and Union Hotel and Asia, located opposite each other a friend (a point on the map). The second one – with small rooms and, most importantly, with air conditioning – is quite suitable for tourists who come to the hotel just to spend the night.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Simple room at the Asia Hotel in Grozny. Photo ATOR

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Bathroom in a room at the Asia Hotel in Grozny. Photo ATOR

WHERE TO EAT IN GROZNY

For a hearty dinner after a long journey, the restaurant Tiflis (dot on the map), located near two hotels, is suitable. It will be pleasant to sit on the covered veranda with air conditioning. It quickly serves dishes on the grill.

For dinner in a beautiful place, you should choose the above-mentioned restaurant “Dome”, perhaps the best in the city.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Kupol Restaurant in the center of Grozny. Photo by ATOR

It offers a magnificent view of Grozny, and partitions are installed between the tables to make communication between visitors more comfortable and private. They serve wonderful lemonades with fresh fruits, and chepalgash with cottage cheese I want to take it with me.

Горы впечатлений: три республики Северного Кавказа за четыре дня

Chepalgash with cottage cheese. Photo ATOR

HOW TO GET FROM GROZNY TO THE AIRPORT

Grozny airport is located very close to the city, so it takes no more than 20 minutes by car from the center to get to it without traffic jams.

Annand Popova

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